George Washington and his army’s daring crossing of the Delaware River on Christmas Night in 1776 is perhaps one of the most famous events in American history. Children learn about the legendary crossing in grade school and certainly most Americans are familiar with Emanuel Gottlieb Leutze’s dramatic 1851 painting, Washington Crossing the Delaware.
But while the image of a stoic Washington and his hardy troops rowing across an ice-choked river is burned within the American psyche, there are many details from that night that are not taught in history class. Fortunately, an informative and fun reenactment of the crossing is put on each year by the Washington Crossing Historic Park, creating an opportunity for Americans to learn more about that meaningful night!
History
After a series of terrible losses and the eventual abandonment of New York in the fall of 1776, Washington and his dwindling army were in full retreat across New Jersey with British General Cornwallis and his army in pursuit.
On December 7 and 8, Washington’s Army crossed the Delaware River into Pennsylvania, hoping to dissuade the British from following. Due to the lateness of the season (in the European style it was extremely rare to campaign in the winter), the British called off the chase and established military outposts throughout New Jersey and settled in for the winter. They were in a perfect position to resume their operations in the spring and quickly capture the American capital of Philadelphia (the Continental Congress had already abandoned Philadelphia in fear of a British attack).
General Washington was in a precarious situation. His army had already shrunk in size from nearly 19,000 soldiers when the New York campaign began to barely mustering 5,000 soldiers by December 1776. Making matters worse, there was a rash of desertions and a majority of his soldier’s enlistments would expire at the end of the year (with matters looking bleak, it was likely these men would simply go home to be with their families). With a severe lack of food and warm clothing, Washington knew that something daring had to be done- his defeated men needed a taste of victory.
Washington’s original plan was for three divisions to cross the Delaware River at different points to attack the Hessian troops stationed in Trenton. This included nearly 3,000 soldiers under General Cadwalader that would cross from Bristol, near today’s King George II Inn; however, the harsh winter weather and dangerous river conditions prevented the southern divisions from crossing. Of course, as the night of December 25 unfolded, Washington had no idea that the plan had taken an early hit- but he pressed forward. On the night of December 25, 1776 (Christmas Day), Washington’s troops began the process of loading the boats- it was around 6pm.
An American army of 2,400 soldiers were transported in approximately 16-18 durham boats, which were large flat-bottomed boats used to haul cargo (ore, fir, timber, and produce) up and down the Delaware River. Additionally, the horses and eighteen pieces of artillery were brought across by ferry (General Henry Knox was in charge of organizing the logistics of the crossing). In fact, George Washington likely crossed onboard one of those ferry craft, which were used to hold the heavy artillery and horses. This is beautifully captured in a 2011 painting by artist Mort Künstler titled Washington’s Crossing at McKonkey’s Ferry.
While the width of the river at the crossing point is only around 900 feet, the howling winter winds, darkness, and floating ice on the river (the average depth is only 90 inches, causing the water to quickly freeze and create floating ice) made it a slow and grueling process. During the few hours it took to carry out the daring crossing, General George Washington stood on the New Jersey shoreline to manage the operation. Nearby stood the Johnson Ferry House, which was used by some soldiers and officers as a temporary refuge from the harsh conditions (it is possible Washington himself rested here, but there is no evidence of this).
It wasn’t until 4am on December 26th when Washington’s soldiers were ready to begin their nine mile march south towards Trenton. With the codeword “Victory or Death” (chosen by Washington) on the lips of the shivering troops, they pressed on towards a surprise victory at Trenton.
While many believe that the Hessian troops stationed in Trenton were drunk and sleeping after a long day of Christmas festivities when they were attacked, this is simply not true. Intelligence of a potential attack got back to Hessian commander Johann Rall and his troops expected some sort of possible action in the coming days. In fact, various skirmishes took place in the region over the preceding days, to include a short fight on Christmas Eve between ~30 Continental scouts and 50 Hessian jaegers. Naturally, Colonel Rall and his troops were on alert, although the blinding snow storm and early morning hour of the attack may have surprised them to a degree.
The early morning attack on the enemy garrison at Trenton and subsequent victory resulted in nearly two dozen Hessians killed (including their commander, Johann Rall), nearly 900 Hessian troops captured, and only two American dead (both due to exposure). Interestingly, there were two future Presidents present at the battle (George Washington and James Monroe) as well as a 21-year old Alexander Hamilton, who served with the New York artillery.
Washington and his army would go on to win a crucial victory at the Battle of Princeton on January 3, 1777.
Washington Crossing Historic Park
Founded in 1917, the Washington Crossing Historic Park (1112 River Road, Washington Crossing, PA 18977) preserves the crossing site and offers a host of historical things to do (on the opposite bank is the New Jersey Washington Crossing State Park).
Our visit was special since it was during the 67th Annual Crossing of the Delaware Reenactment (they also hold a Christmas Day reenactment every year, which is attended by thousands). The visitors center has a wonderful gift shop and also sells the $8 entrance fee for the reenactment (tickets are also sold outside near the reenactment site).
After purchasing our tickets, we walked around the visitors center towards the river where the reenactment was to take place. Near the backside of the building near the river is a stone monument erected in 1885 that has inscribed “Near this spot, Washington crossed the Delaware on Christmas Night 1776, The Eve of the Battle of Trenton.”
The crowd, which numbered well into the thousands, gathered near the edge of the river to await the start of the reenactment. Being amidst such a large crowd of people who were excited to learn about and see history come to life was a neat experience- sometimes it feels that we as Americans do not appreciate our history as much as we should.
We also noticed a good sized crowd gathering on the opposite bank (in New Jersey); however, it was not nearly as crowded as it was on the Pennsylvania side. Depending on what you want to experience or see, it may make sense to drive over to the New Jersey Washington Crossing State Park to get a better view of the crossing (and to welcome Washington and his army!).
As the show began, an emcee kicked things off and introduced a guest speaker that made some opening remarks. As the emcee provided details from the actual crossing, multiple boat crews, soldiers, and officers marched out carrying paddles, muskets, and gear. I will say, the reenactment was quite entertaining- but unlike the dark and dangerous real-life crossing, this event took place during the day and with a calm and clear river.
Multiple durham boats (made in the 1990s to the same specifications as the original boats used by Washington’s army) were used for the crossing reenactment, which added to the realism and accuracy of the event.
After the first few boats shoved off and began their 900 foot journey across the Delaware River, the crowds quickly thinned out in search of food and other exhibits. If you are wanting to get clear pictures and a good view of the crossing, this is the time to be at the riverbank (they even allow you to get a bit closer once all the boats have shoved off). As the stout durham boats glided across the river, it almost felt as if we were watching a real scene from the American Revolution play out (especially when there were no modern buildings or other spectators in view).
As the last boats reached the New Jersey shore, Cher and I set out to find some food and to explore the rest of the grounds. We ended getting a pizza from a food stand and walking about the historic buildings that comprise the Historic Park. There are multiple 18th and 19th century buildings in the park, but perhaps the most interesting is the McConkey’s Ferry Inn, which is a short walk from the visitors center.
The McConkey’s Ferry Inn is an 18th century building and is original to the area. It is believed that on Christmas night before the historic crossing, George Washington and his aides ate dinner at the Inn. Additionally, following the attack on Trenton, the Continental army returned to the area and the Inn with Hessian prisoners. The Inn is available for tours and is highly recommended.
Across the river in New Jersey is Washington Crossing State Park, which has a few historic sites and monuments associated with the famous crossing. This includes the Johnson Ferry House (ca 1740), which is the only existing structure that stood on December 25-26, 1776.
As the sun began to fade during this short winter day, we reflected on the awesome experiences we just had. Washington’s daring crossing of the Delaware was a turning point in the war and marked the beginning of what historians call the “Ten Crucial Days” (which began that Christmas night and ended on January 3, 1777 with the Battle of Princeton). I am thankful for historical reenactments and those participants who make them happen, because they bring what we read in books to life, helping us appreciate our history and those who came before us.