The Mexican-American War is certainly one of the least studied wars in American history. It took place between the War of 1812 and the Civil War and it sort of gets lost in history books. Interestingly, out in California and other parts of the southwest, there are actually many signs of that event, to include a few battlefields. Perhaps the best preserved in California is from the Battle of San Pasqual!
History
The Mexican-American War took place between 1846 and 1848. Of course, this war was as controversial then as it is now. In 1845, the United States annexed Texas, though its southern border remained disputed. In an attempt to gain not on portions of Texas but much of the modern-day southwest United States, President James Polk convinced Congress to declare war on Mexico on May 13, 1846, after U.S. forces were internally sent into disputed territory and repelled by Mexican forces. Thus, the United States was at war with Mexico with the perceived purpose of acquiring territory.
The war was fought in Mexico and the modern-day states of Texas, New Mexico, and California. From December 6-10, 1846, a series of small engagements between American forces under command of General Stephen Kearny and Californio forces under command of Andrés Pico were fought in a valley outside of the modern-day city of Escondido, California- this is known as the Battle of San Pasqual. This valley, today known as the San Pasqual valley, is acknowledged that this is the ancestral land of the First People, the Kumeyaay. In reality, the battle was a running fight that began in the valley and ended on a small rise a few miles to the west.
The Battle of San Pasqual (December 6-10, 1846)
In the fall of 1846, General Stephen Kearny and a force of over 1,000 men were ordered west from Missouri with the task of seizing territory, to include California, and conciliate the local inhabitants to the United States. During their journey and while in New Mexico, Kearny was ordered to take command of all American forces in California.
Upon learning that Commodore Robert F. Stockton had seized much of California, Kearny sent most of his force back east and kept only around 100 men from Companies C & K of the 1st Dragoons. Famous westerner Kit Carson guided Kearny’s force to Warner’s Ranch in California, where they arrived on December 2nd, 1846.
On December 5th, Captain Archibald Gillespie and 39 marines from San Diego met General Kearny and his force with a request for them to confront enemy forces in the region under command of Captain Jose Flores. Amidst the troop movements out of San Diego, Captain Andre Picos, brother to Pío Pico (the last Mexican Governor of California), led a force of around 80 Mexicans, known as Californios, to track the Americans. Kearny’s camp suspected the enemy force and after a scouting mission, both sides were aware of the other’s presence. Battle was near.
Just after midnight on December 6th, Kearny ordered his men forward to carry out an immediate attack, despite rain and poor mounts. The Americans lost the element of surprise, but yearned for combat after months of marching and suffering. In the initial action, darkness and fog sparked confusion, which led to the American horsemen to be separated. A misunderstood order resulted in 40 of the best mounted Americans to push far forward, away from the main body.
Pico and the Californios took advantage of their knowledge of the terrain and went on the attack. The rain made the American carbines almost useless while the Californios fought effectively with lances and a few firearms. The battle quickly devolved to hand-to-hand fighting. Much of this fighting took place near a Kumeyaay village, where U.S. Army Captain Abraham Johnston was shot and killed.
Amidst the melee, many men were killed and others wounded, to include General Kearny. Rain, stubborn mules, and short sabers plagued the Americans, who were overmatched by the Californios and their long lances. One American howitzer was captured while the second was finally unlimbered and brought to action. Either the eruption of canister shot or rapid escalation of hostilities led to Pico’s withdrawal of his Californio forces.
The next day, Captain Turner led the Americans, to include the wounded Kearny and others, on towards the coast; however, they were blocked by Californios near a hill (today known as Mule Hill). On the night of December 8th, Navy Lieutenant Edward Beale and Kit Carson volunteered to sneak through the Californio lines with an Indian guide and proceed to San Diego to request reinforcements.
For a few days, American forces were trapped atop this hill and hunger and a lack of food eventually led them to kill and eat their mules- hence the name “Mule Hill.” Eventually, around 200 American sailors and marines reached Kearny’s beleaguered force and the Californios were dispersed. The exhausted Americans reached the safety of San Diego on December 12th.
Doctor John Griffin, General Kearny’s surgeon, reported 17 Americans killed and 18 wounded. Oral tradition from the Kumeyaay people say that American losses would’ve been worse if it wasn’t for their help. Pico’s Californios had 2 men killed and 18 wounded. The Battle of San Pasqual was the worst defeat suffered by the Americans during the war.
My Visit & Recommendations
There is not a distinct battlefield dedicated to the Battle of San Pasqual as you might see to many battles out east; however, there are a few key sites you can visit today! The first site I recommend visiting is the San Pasqual Battlefield State Historic Park and Visitor Center (15808 San Pasqual Valley Road, Escondido, CA). Though the Visitor Center is currently (temporarily) closed as of 2024, when it is open, a small museum and a series of trails helps visitors understand the initial fighting that took place in the valley below on December 6, 1846.
Though the museum was closed, I was able to walk some of the trails (be mindful of rattle snakes!), read a few interpretive signs, and take in the great views of the San Pasqual Valley. Perhaps the most unique thing to see here is the towering bronze monument dedicated to an interesting event that took place during the multi-day battle: the escape of Kit Carson and Edward Beale to get reinforcements.
The monument, which has an inscription titles “An Incident of the Mexican War,” depicts explorer Kit Carson and Edward F. Beale. These two men “volunteered to get through the Mexican lines and get reinforcements From Stockton’s fleet at San Diego.” The inscription goes on to explain:
“They succeeded in crawling past three cordons of Mexican sentries in the night, and by hiding in ravines in the day and traveling by night they reached Stockton’s fleet after enduring great hardships.”
After exploring the trails and taking in the breathtaking views of the surrounding landscape, I headed back to my car and drove a short distance down the road to visit two older monuments dedicated to the Battle of San Pasqual. There is a small dirt patch off the side of the San Pasqual Valley Road (right where it splits into Old Milky Way) where you can park. You will be able to see the fairly large stone monument from the road.
As mentioned, this site has two older monuments dedicated to the battle. The first monument here was dedicated in 1925 and is the larger stone you can see from the road. It has a really nice plaque on the front, which lists the Americans who were killed. The second monument is down a short, small trail off to the right. It is also a plaque placed onto a stone and was originally dedicated in 1924 by the Daughters of the American Revolution (DAR) of California (the monument was re-dedicated in 1993).
T
Mule Hill Trail & Battle Site
After exploring the main battlefield area, I drove a few miles west back towards the I-15 highway to visit the site where American forces were pinned down awaiting reinforcements. If you type in “Mule Hill Trailhead” into maps, you will find it (a specific address that also works is 12655 Sunset Drive, Escondido, CA). There is a dirt parking lot you can park in for free, which is also right next to the Sikes Adobe Historic Farmstead.
I set out down the trail, which winds around Sikes Adobe Historic Farmstead and a golf driving range (if you really want to save time/don’t want to walk alot, I recommend parking at the Black Angus Steakhouse and crossing Via Rancho Parkway to pick up Mule Hill Trail). It was a particularly hot day, but I was the only person on the trail, so it was still enjoyable.
As you walk down the trail, Mule Hill and other geographic features will begin to stand out, making it somewhat obviously why the Americans chose that site to hunker down to defend themselves (a ton of massive boulders surely helped). There are quite a few interpretive signs along the trail, which explain the history of the Battle of San Pasqual, what took place at Mule Hill, and some even explore the general history of the region.
Mule Hill Trail in its entirety is 6.6 miles (out and back), but you can walk any distance of it you’d like. For reference, I started at the very beginning and made it to the main area of Mule Hill (with most of the interpretive signs) in about 15-20 minutes. Of course, your pace plays a big part in it!