Fort Sumter is one of the most iconic fortifications in the United States, largely because it was where the American Civil War began. Today, it is one of the most popular sites for visitors to explore during a trip to Charleston. Although the fort has changed and the sands have shifted over the decades, Fort Sumter remains a remarkable military and historical site that you won’t want to miss!
History
Following the War of 1812, the United States determined there were numerous seacoast cities that were vulnerable to attack. A plan was formulated by the Army Corps of Engineers to build approximately 200 fortifications along the East Coast and Gulf of Mexico, which included Charleston Harbor (just over 40 forts were built until the Civil War interrupted construction). This was known as the “Third System of Seacoast Defense.”
In order to properly defend the entrance to Charleston Harbor, construction of an artificial island began in 1829. After soundings determined a proper site, over 70,000 tons of New England granite were used to build the island upon an existing sand bar. Ultimately, it was decided to build a brick fort, named after local Revolutionary War hero, General Thomas Sumter. The fort was designed to have five-sides ranging from 170 – 190 feet in length, a height of nearly 50-feet above the low-tide mark, and five-foot thick walls. While the exterior of Fort Sumter was completed, the interior and armament was not, largely due to funding and logistical issues. By December 1860, Fort Sumter was still an imposing military structure, as seen in the sketch below.
Fort Sumter and nearby fortifications such as Fort Moultrie were manned by Federal troops on the eve of the American Civil War. When South Carolina officially seceded from the Union on December 20, 1860, it was clear to Major Robert Anderson that he could not effectively maintain control of Fort Moultrie for long. On December 26th, he spiked the fort’s guns and discreetly moved his 127 men across the harbor to Fort Sumter. Over the next few months, South Carolina Governor Francis Pickens demanded that Fort Sumter be abandoned, though President Buchanan ignored the demand.
When Union naval forces attempted to resupply and reinforce Fort Sumter on January 9, 1861, they were repelled by southern forces (largely cadets from the Citadel). By early spring, it was clear to President Lincoln and military leadership that Fort Sumter would soon run out of food and supplies. Accordingly, a fleet of ships was dispatched with the goal of entering Charleston Harbor and landing supplies and troops at Fort Sumter- Lincoln had no intention of abandoning the Union-held fort. On April 11, 1861, Confederate Brigadier General P. G. T. Beauregard (military commander in Charleston) sent an envoy to Fort Sumter to make one last demand for its surrender; however, they were not pleased with Major Anderson’s conditions and the bombardment of Fort Sumter began at 4:30AM on April 12, 1861. These were the first shots of the American Civil War. After 34 hours of bombardment, the fort was surrendered and evacuated by the Union garrison.
From that point on, the Confederacy controlled Fort Sumter for nearly four years and made structural reinforcements (carried out by slave labor). In an attempt to capture Charleston in 1863, the Union Army and Navy began a heavy bombardment on Fort Sumter and on the night of September 8-9, 1863, attempted an assault against the fort via small boats. Unfortunately, poor coordination, weather, and a stout Confederate defense thwarted this assault and the fort remained in Confederate hands. In fact, it wasn’t until February 17, 1865, that Confederate forces abandoned Fort Sumter in the face of Union General Sherman’s advance into South Carolina. On February 22, 1865, Union forces officially took possession of Fort Sumter, and the American flag has flown over the fort ever since.
After the American Civil War, Fort Sumter was quite literally in ruins. The United States Army began to rebuild and overhaul the fort, with the intent to again use it as an active military fortification. The once 50-foot high walls were reconstructed to a much lower height (as seen today) and the third tier of gun emplacements was removed. Despite these efforts, the fort was primarily used as an unmanned lighthouse station from 1876 – 1897. When the Spanish-American War began, the defenses of Fort Sumter were beefed up, as a concrete blockhouse and battery were built within the original walls and armed with two 12-inch M1888 guns (this was named Battery Huger, after Revolutionary War hero General Isaac Huger). Of course, Fort Sumter never saw action again and was officially deactivated in 1947.
In 1948, the Fort Sumter National Monument was established by the National Park Service and in 1966, the site was listed on the National Register of Historic Places. Today, Fort Sumter and Fort Moultrie National Historical Park preserve both historic sites and provide access and tours to both.
Our Visit & Recommendations
Ever since learning about Fort Sumter and the beginning of the American Civil War as a young student, I have always wanted to visit the famous site. Thankfully, we were finally able to during a visit to Charleston!
Visiting Fort Sumter is fairly easy, but you must take a ferry to get there (they no longer allow private boats to dock at Fort Sumter). As you plan your trip, I highly recommend visiting the NPS website here for information and to purchase your ferry tickets well in advance (the ferry tends to fill up fast). While the National Park Service manages the fort, they contract out the ferry rides ($32 each) to Fort Sumter Tours and you can purchase your ferry tickets here.
The great thing about a visit to Fort Sumter is that the ferry ride takes you through Charleston Harbor, which provides unparalleled views of the city and surrounding landscape. Be sure to look out for the mighty USS Yorktown and USS Laffey at the Patriots Point Naval & Maritime Museum in the distance! Also, you will pass right by Shutes Folly Island, which has historic Castle Pickney on its southern end (the ferry captain usually provides a short history of the many things you pass by).
After an approximately 30 minute ferry ride (which was quite chilly in May- be sure to bring a jacket!), we arrived at historic Fort Sumter. The Park Ranger gathered everyone from the ferry into the interior of the fort and provided a short history on Fort Sumter before we were able to explore the grounds. On average, visitors are given about 1 hour to explore, which is plenty of time to see the fort and check out the on-site gift shop.
We actually were on the very first ferry of the morning, which meant we all got to witness the raising of the American flag over the fort for the day (visitors on the first ferry of the day always get to experience this amazing tradition!). This was particularly special when you stop to think that since the end of the American Civil War, the American flag has been flown over Fort Sumter (after nearly four years of Confederate occupation).
If you look closely in the photo of the flag pole below, you will see a distinct red band about halfway up. This marks the former height of Fort Sumter’s walls, as it was back in 1861 during the infamous attack on the fort. As previously mentioned, the walls today are much lower due to the damage it sustained and follow-on repairs and modernizations.
After the flag raising ceremony, we set out to explore the upper portions of the fort, before heading back down to the ground level. From atop the fort, you can take in the amazing views of Charleston Harbor and the surrounding landscape. Additionally, there are a few artillery pieces and interpretive signs are on display.
There are a lot of artillery pieces on display throughout Fort Sumter, which are from various eras of the fort’s history. Guns on display include numerous 6.4 inch (100 pounder) Parrott guns, which were installed by Federal troops in the 1870s, a 42-pounder that Confederate forces rifled to improves its accuracy and range, a 12-pounder mountain howitzer used by Confederate forces, a Columbiad gun, and a Model 1819 10-inch mortar, just to name a few. Needless to say, it is heaven for any artillery/cannon aficionados!
The interior of the fort is not nearly as big as I expected, but there is still quite a bit to see. Other than the large Battery Huger and gift shop located in the fort’s center, there are casemate ruins, officers and enlisted men quarter’s ruins, the powder magazine, numerous artillery pieces, and the Union garrison monument. The below map and associated chart give a good aerial view of Fort Sumter and the main sites that can be visited today.
After exploring every corner of the fort, visiting the gift shop, and taking in the beautiful views, it was time to board the ferry and head back to Charleston. Honestly, I probably could’ve spent a few hours wandering around the fort, reading the signs, and trying to imagine what it was like during those trying days in April, when the Union garrison withstood that heavy bombardment, perhaps not realizing that meant civil war. As the ferry departed the pier, we took one last long look at Fort Sumter- an iconic symbol of our nation’s past.
