York, Pennsylvania is a small town that anyone outside of central Pennsylvania (or history buffs) have likely never heard of- but they should! This beautiful town holds some of the most important history from the American Revolutionary War and our country’s founding. York was not only considered the “capital of the nation” when the Continental Congress resided there, but it is also the final resting place for two signers of the Declaration of Independence!
History
Following the British Army’s occupation of Philadelphia in late September 1777, the patriot cause seemed nearly hopeless. The Continental Army was but a few weeks from settling into winter quarters at Valley Forge and alarmingly, the Continental Congress was forced to flee west. After a one day stay in Lancaster, Congress ultimately settled in the country town of York (then known as Yorktown), Pennsylvania. From September 30, 1777 to June 27, 1778, the delegates gathered in York’s court house. John Hancock served as the president of Congress during this move and until October 31, 1777, when Henry Laurens of South Carolina assumed the position (Laurens served as president until December 9, 1778).
On November 15, 1777, the Articles of Confederation were adopted by Congress. Officially titled the “Articles of Confederation and Perpetual Union,” this historic document was the first written constitution of the United States and provided a frame of government for the 13 states. This gave York the distinction of being the “First Capital of the Nation,” although I’m sure Philadelphia and Baltimore might contest that. The Articles would not actually go into effect until March 1, 1781, when all of the states had finally ratified the document. Shortly after the war, the Articles were largely criticized, because it limited the government’s ability to tax (among other things) and required the unanimous approval of all 13 states to implement decisions.
During Congress’ stay in York, another major event occurred: the ratification of the French Treaty of Alliance on May 4, 1778. This alliance was negotiated by American diplomats Benjamin Franklin, Silas Deane, and Arthur Lee, who were in France to acquire financial and military assistance. These representatives signed the alliance on February 6, 1778, which formally forged a partnership between the United States and France. One of the main tenets of the alliance was that neither side would make peace with England until American independence was recognized.
During the winter of 1777 – 1778, the dramatic arrival of Congress was not the only interesting thing going on in York. While General George Washington and the main army suffered in its winter encampment outside Philadelphia, General Horatio Gates stayed in town during the winter of 1777-1778. He lodged in a 2 1/2 story limestone house that was built by Joseph Chambers in 1751, which was connected to neighboring Golden Plough Tavern through a shared kitchen.
Gates’ presence in town surely contributed to the infamous “Conway Cabal,” which was a group of senior army officers and officials that sought to replace General Washington in late 1777 and early 1778. Gates, along with Brigadier General Thomas Conway (the cabal’s namesake) and Thomas Mifflin, wrote damning letters about Washington’s supposed incompetence and lack of leadership. They viewed the abandonment of Philadelphia and recent losses at the battles of Brandywine and Germantown as prime reasons to doubt Washington’s ability to lead. Conversely, the army under General Gates had earned a decisive victory against General John Burgoyne’s British forces during the Saratoga Campaign in October 1777, which some believed was reason enough to promote Gates to Washington’s post (even though Benedict Arnold is largely credited with the army’s success at Saratoga). Thankfully, Washington soon learned of the insubordination and exchange of letters, which ultimately led to Conway’s resignation and Gate’s formal apology.
Another interesting story arose from that winter in York, which involves the famous young Frenchman, Marquis de Lafayette. During a gathering at Gates’ residence on a cold night in York, which undoubtedly included many critics of General Washington, Lafayette gave quite a memorable toast. It was no secret that Lafayette was an incredibly loyal supporter of Washington (often described as like a son), regardless of the snide comments Gates or others made. As the story goes (although it cannot be substantiated necessarily), Lafayette gave a stirring toast in honor of their commander, which caused a sense of shame in some and discomfort in others. It was clear that Lafayette could not be swayed to their side.
York’s primarily role in the American Revolution came to a close on June 27, 1778, when the Continental Congress departed town. Congress reconvened back at the State House in Philadelphia (known as Independence Hall today) on July 2, 1778.
Our Visit & Recommendations
We made a short day trip to the town of York, Pennsylvania, and visited some of the historic sites associated with the town’s role in the American Revolution. Our trip included five main sites: Golden Plough Tavern (ca 1741), General Horatio Gates House (ca 1751), the Colonial Court House (rebuilt in 1976), First Presbyterian Churchyard (grave of James Smith), and Prospect Hill Cemetery (grave of Philip Livingston).
The Golden Plough Tavern, Gates House, and Colonial Court House are all part of the Colonial Complex, which includes four historic buildings in downtown York (the fourth building is the 1812 Barnett Bobb Log House, which was moved to this site). Approximately one hour-long tours of the complex are offered seasonally, from April – November. Of note, only guided tours are offered for the admission cost of $12 for adults and $5 for children aged 6-17 (5 & under are free). Of course, please refer to their website for any updated information or rates.
During our visit, the Colonial Complex was unfortunately closed; however, we were still able to explore the grounds and appreciate the history of these amazing buildings and sites! We found free street parking nearby and walked about, enjoying the cool autumn air.
In front of the Golden Plough Tavern and the General Horatio Gates House (both of which are connected), there are two signs that were erected by the Pennsylvania Historical and Museum Commission. Additionally, there is a bronze statue of the Marquis de Lafayette, which was dedicated in 2007. This was placed in honor of Lafayette’s role in the winter of 1777-1778, when he supposedly gave a toast at Gates’ residence in support of General Washington.
A very short walk down West Market Street is the 1976 reconstruction of the Colonial Court House, where the Continental Congress met during their nine-month stay in York. The original courthouse was built in 1754, but was taken down in 1841. Thankfully, this replica was built in 1976 in honor of Congress’ time spent in York (although it is a few blocks from where it originally stood on the town square).
We took the time to read the few interpretive signs and memorials outside of the courthouse, which discuss the many important events that occurred here during Congress’ stay. This included the adoption of the Articles of Confederation on November 15, 1777, and the ratification of the French Alliance on May 4, 1778. There is even a wooden pillory out front!
After walking about the Colonial Complex for a bit, we hopped back in the truck to see the two other sites associated with the American Revolution. First, we headed to the First Presbyterian Church of York, located about five minutes down the road (225 E Market Street). Its churchyard is the final resting place for James Smith, one of the Pennsylvania signers of the Declaration of Independence.
James Smith was born in northern Ireland in 1719 and came to the colonies with his family around 1729, who settled York County, Pennsylvania. He was a vocal supporter of independence and was an advocate for Pennsylvania’s sparsely-settled western counties. Although he did not arrive in Congress until July 20, 1776 (after the vote for independence occurred), he signed the famous document later that year. After the war, he held a variety of state offices and continued to work for his community. On July 11, 1806, James Smith died in York.
We did not have to wander through the churchyard long to find his grave- the 9′ 6″ tall marble monument (circa 1850) immediately stood out to us. Near his gravesite is that of David Grier, a revolutionary war soldier and “ratifier of the Constitution.” The churchyard is extremely well maintained and has numerous patriots buried within- you will certainly want to spend a bit of time here exploring!
Our final stop in York was at Prospect Hill Cemetery (700 North George Street), where another signer of the Declaration of Independence is buried. Within this large cemetery is the grave of Philip Livingston, one of four New York delegates to the Continental Congress who signed the Declaration.
Livingston was born into a wealthy family on January 16, 1715, in Albany, New York. After attending Yale College and graduating in 1737, he returned to Albany to learn his father’s mercantile business. He eventually moved to New York City and established himself as an importer, particularly in trade with the British West Indies. Throughout the 1740s and beyond, Livingston dabbled in real estate, the slave trade, distilling, and even privateering. Needless to say, he became a highly successful and wealthy merchant.
Politically, Livingston served as a delegate to the Albany Congress in 1754 and participated in the Stamp Act Congress of 1765. From that point on, he became heavily invested in the patriot cause and joined the city’s Committee of Correspondence. His power and prestige earned him the position as president of New York’s Provincial Congress in 1775 and he was chosen as a delegate to the Second Continental Congress that same year. In the summer of 1776, Livingston was finally driven to support a break from England (as were many others in Congress) and he signed the Declaration of Independence.
Livingston served in the Continental Congress until 1778. When he attended the sixth session in York, Pennsylvania, he suffered from dropsy and died suddenly on June 12, 1778 at the age of 63. He was buried in Prospect Hill Cemetery in York, PA.
Finding Philip Livingston’s grave took a bit more time (I wish we would’ve done more research before arriving at the cemetery). In order to hopefully save you some time: enter Prospect Hill Cemetery from North George Street and immediately turn right towards the main building (you will see a row of parking spots on your right with a sign dedicated to Philip Livingston). Continue to drive past and around the building and take the first (and only) left. Just a few paces up that road you will find Livingston’s gravesite on your right, somewhat near the Prospect Hill Soldiers’ Lot (a Civil War burial site with a prominent statue).
Legacy
Like countless small towns in America, York possesses a great deal of interesting history. Although I’d wager that York has a special connection to some of the most important and fascinating moments and people from our nation’s earliest chapters. Not only does the town tell a story about revolutionary politics and war, it tells the story of the thousands of German and Scots-Irish immigrants who established York and made it what it is today. Without a doubt, a visit to revolutionary York is sure to be a memorable one!