Charleston, South Carolina is one of the most historic cities in America and it possesses some of the country’s greatest architectural gems. One is the Old Exchange and Provost Dungeon, which has stood at the head of Broad Street for over 250 years. In the past two and a half centuries, the building has served a myriad of purposes, to include as an exchange, custom house, prison/dungeon, and even as Charleston city hall. Today, the Old Exchange has been preserved as a museum and is a must-see site when visiting the city!
History
On the site that the Old Exchange & Provost Dungeon now sits was once a defensive seawall, which was erected to defend the coastal city. In 1701, the “half-moon battery” was completed, a curved brick seawall along the waterfront, which protruded from the defensive perimeter around Charles Town (Charleston). Overall, this defensive perimeter was comprised of 10-13 foot brick walls, erected around the entire city to withstand European (primarily French and Spanish) and Native American attacks.
It wasn’t until 1767 that a Custom House (the Old Exchange & Provost Dungeon) was commissioned by an act of the General Assembly of the South Carolina Colony. The site for the building would be at the head of Broad Street, which was the center of colonial Charles Town’s waterfront. In 1768, the half-moon battery was largely demolished in order to build the Custom House, which was completed in 1771 (although portions of the half-moon battery remain to this day). The Georgian-Palladian architecture highlighted the wealth and prestige of Charles Town, which proved to be one of the most industrious and diverse cities in the North American Colonies at the time.
The palatial building (for 18th-century Charleston, anyways) was used for a variety of functions during its early years: a Custom House, market/exchange, meeting place, and even a gaol (jail). Importantly, the Old Exchange was a primary location for slave auctions throughout the colonial era and 1800s. This horrific enterprise, based on human bondage, was perhaps the most important factor in Charleston’s financial success and growth.
As the American Colonies barreled towards revolution, the building also played a central role. While many know of the Boston Tea Party of December 1773, there were also “Tea Parties” held by patriot groups in cities up and down the eastern seaboard. This included Charleston, whose patriots confiscated East India Company tea and stored in the Old Exchange. During the early years of the American Revolution, this building served as the primary meeting place of revolutionary leadership. In fact, Governor John Rutledge read the Declaration of Independence from the steps of the Exchange on August 5, 1776.
When the British Army occupied Charleston beginning in 1780, the Exchange was used primarily as a prison. In particular, they converted the basement, once used to store merchandise and goods, into a prison or “dungeon.” In this cold, dark space was held American political prisoners, insubordinate British soldiers, citizens, and enslaved African Americans. Some of the most famous prisoners held here were Edward Rutledge & Arthur Middleton (signers of the Declaration of Independence), Christopher Gadsen (Lt. Governor of South Carolina), and Continental officers taken during the Battle of Camden.
During the British occupation of Charleston, a notorious execution of an American prisoner occurred. Colonel Isaac Hayne, a member of the South Carolina militia, was a prisoner in the Provost Dungeon; however, he was previously a lukewarm supporter of the Crown (due to his wealth and property in the British-held city), at least while the British occupied Charleston. When he was captured by the British, he was considered a traitor and made an example of. Hayne was forced to sit upon his own coffin in a second-floor room of the Exchange for a long period of time (the mental and emotional stress from this can only be imagined), before being led gallows and hung until dead.
The Old Exchange remained, primarily, a British military until 1782. On December 14, 1782, the British Army evacuated Charleston as the war began to wind down and the building was eventually turned over to the people of Charleston. In 1788, the building was used by the South Carolina Constitutional Convention, which debated the groundbreaking document.
When President George Washington visited Charleston in 1791 (as part of his southern tour), numerous dinners and events were held in the Exchange. Truly, it was the central gathering place for the city during this time. Unfortunately, the building’s importance waned throughout the 1800s, although it was used as a Federal Post Office for many decades (to include service as a Confederate Post Office during the Civil War).
During the American Civil War, the Union Army continuously bombarded Charleston as part of an attempt to re-capture the crucial port town. As a result of those heavy bombardments, the Exchange was hit by dozens of Union shells and was essentially abandoned during the war. But despite this battle damage, the building survived the war and was eventually repaired and maintained.
In 1913, the historic building was taken over by the Daughters of the American Revolution (DAR) and it was used for various purposes throughout WWI and WWII. In 1965, the remaining portions of the half-moon battery beneath the building were discovered and preserved. Today, the DAR continues to preserve and manage the Old Exchange & Provost Dungeon.
Interesting Facts
- The word “Provost,” associated with the prison/dungeon beneath the Old Exchange, came from the position of “Provost Marshal,” whose duties were to oversee the prison
- On May 12, 1780, Continental General Benjamin Lincoln surrendered the city of Charleston, along with approximately 6,000 American soldiers. This was a severe blow to the American war effort and the largest loss of American troops during the Revolutionary War
- Charleston’s Old Exchange is one of only four remaining buildings where the U.S. Constitution was adopted. The other three are Newport’s Colony House (Rhode Island), Annapolis’ Capital Building (Maryland), and Philadelphia’s Independence Hall (Pennsylvania).
Our Visit & Recommendations
Charleston’s Old Exchange & Provost Dungeon (122 East Bay Street) is the city’s most famous building and perhaps one of the most fascinating historical structures in the United States! We spent a lovely few days in the city and were very excited to explore all that it has to offer, especially the Exchange, which still maintains a prominent position at Broad & East Bay Streets.
The Old Exchange is open Monday – Saturday (9AM – 5PM), Sunday (11AM – 5PM), and is closed on major holidays. Tour tickets are $12 for adults and $5 for children 7-12 (those 6 and under are free) and do not need to be purchased in advance. While the first and second floor exhibits can be explored at your leisure, guided tours of the Provost Dungeon are offered every 30 minutes. For updates and additional information, please visit their website.
We brought Daisy along during this trip to Charleston and thankfully, the Old Exchange & Provost Dungeon allowed us to bring her along! Upon arriving and purchasing tickets, we learned that we had just missed a tour of the dungeon, so we took that 30 minutes to explore the exhibits on the first floor. This includes the Rebecca Motte Chapter Room, an elegantly furnished space often used for official events and gatherings. Additionally, there is an exhibit dedicated to the 1800s Federal Post Office that once occupied the Exchange (the original post office “screen line” is on display).
Opposite the Rebecca Motte Chapter Room is another beautiful space, which has exhibits highlighting the history of the building and the city of Charleston. On display are beautiful paintings of George Washington and William Moultrie, 18th-century furniture, the building’s tower clock from 1872, and even the waistcoat worn by General William Moultrie when he was inaugurated as Governor of South Carolina in 1785! Be sure to take the time to explore this room, there is much to see (if you run out of time prior to your dungeon tour, you are welcome to return after your tour and explore some more!).
After ~20 minutes, we headed down towards the Provost Dungeon in preparation for our guided tour. Prior to entering the actual Provost, there is a waiting room with a few displays and information about the history of the prison, to include a list of prominent prisoners held there. It is important to remember that the British Army did not just hold American political prisoners here- enslaved Africans, women, and even unruly British soldiers were held in the Provost. After a brief wait, a costumed guide greeted us all and welcomed us into the Provost!
As you enter the Provost, you can see a portion of the original half-moon battery sea wall to your right (which will be pointed out by the guide) and numerous life-size figures that depict the many stories, experiences, and people that the Provost witnessed. From pirates, politicians, soldiers, slaves, and everyone in between, the damp and dark “dungeon” was called home by many.
As we wandered beneath the remarkable brick archways of the Provost, we were immediately met by a distinct damp basement smell (reminiscent of Disney’s “Pirates of the Caribbean” ride). Although the Provost Dungeon is a beautifully unique space that seems better suited for a wine cellar, it was once a dreaded and feared prison (Daisy sure seemed scared!). The tour discusses the many uses for this space, which included a secret storage space of gun powder on the eve of the American Revolution.
After the awesome tour of the Provost Dungeon, we ascended two stories to explore the second floor, which we didn’t have time to see previously. On the second floor is the grand Assembly Room, which is the space where the U.S. Constitution was debated and adopted by the state of South Carolina. There are quite a few interpretive signs and displays in this room, which are worth taking the time to read. Oh, and don’t forget to look out the window and take in the commanding view of Broad Street and St. Michael’s Church in the distance.
Adjacent to the Assembly Room is a small space that was once used to confine Colonel Isaac Hayne prior to his hanging. It is said that he was forced to sit on his own coffin in this room and contemplate his fate. Today, there are a few paintings and artifacts on display and you can also see a portion of the original brick wall.
If you are visiting historic Charleston, the Old Exchange & Provost Dungeon is an absolutely must-see! Not only will you learn about the building’s history, but you will explore the many wars and events that gripped the city, and the role slavery and the slave trade played in Charleston’s history.