The Battle of Brandywine was the largest and longest single-day battle of the American Revolution (~11 hours long), involved over 30,000 troops between the two armies, resulted in the most casualties of any battle in the war, and covered 35,000 acres. It was truly a larger-than-life conflict that pitted the military genius of British Generals William Howe & Charles Cornwallis against the doggedly determined General George Washington. Today, there are numerous unique historic sites associated with the battle that can be visited and explored- but be ready to drive!
History
On August 25, 1777, the British Army landed at the Head of Elk after 34 days at sea. The first engagement between British and American forces occurred on September 3 near modern-day Glasgow, Delaware, known as the Battle of Cooch’s Bridge. Following the fight, General Washington moved north and positioned his army on the eastern side of Brandywine Creek at Chadd’s Ford, which was the most direct crossing of the creek towards Philadelphia (and where Washington believed he could put up a strong defense). On September 9, General Washington positioned forces at six other river crossings to the north and the south of Chadd’s Ford. The British Army under General William Howe maneuvered to the west of Brandywine Creek and camped at Kennett Square. The armies were poised for battle.
As General Washington and the American Army prepared for and fully expected a frontal assault at Chadd’s Ford, British General Howe intended to perform a flanking maneuver similar to what was successfully employed in the Battle of Long Island. In the early hours of a warm and foggy September 11, 1777, General Howe deployed nearly 7,000 troops under General Wilhelm von Knyphausen to advance towards the American main position at Chadd’s Ford. Between 5-8am, Knyphausen’s troops briefly engaged a contingent American Light Infantry under William Maxwell, as the British marched east towards Brandywine Creek. Maxwell’s soldiers fell back strategically, fired upon, and harassed the oncoming enemy whenever and however they could (this included fighting around the Old Kennett Meeting House). After a few hours of these movements, Maxwell’s men were forced across the creek to the eastern shore with the remainder of the American Army.
As Knyphausen’s men moved east, General Howe and General Cornwallis began a ~10 mile march north along the Great Valley Road (having left Kennett Square around 4-5am) to cross the Brandywine Creek at two unguarded fords to flank the American Army: Trimble’s Ford and Jefferis Ford on the eastern fork of the Brandywine Creek, which they crossed between 1 and 2pm.
After crossing at Jefferis Ford, the British Army under Generals Howe and Cornwallis began a southerly march down the Birmingham Road towards the unaware American right flank. During this long march, the British Army briefly paused in Sconnelltown (likely for tea) and then at Osborne Hill, where the heights offered General Howe a perfect spot to direct the movements of his troops.
As the British troops began to deploy near Osborne Hill north of the American positions, the Continental Army was alarmed to learn of their presence- the time was around 2pm. Upon learning this intelligence, General Washington quickly ordered the divisions of Generals Stirling and Stephen to advance north towards the meet the British threat. All the while, General Washington still believed that the main British Army faced him across Chadd’s Ford and that the flanking movement was an intentional distraction- he placed his bets and prepared for a frontal assault at the Brandywine.
The troops under command of General Stirling (1st New Jersey & 3rd Pennsylvania) and General Stephen (3rd and 4th Virginia) advanced north up the Birmingham Road and hastily formed a defensive line near the Birmingham Meeting House by Birmingham Hill (four 3-pound cannons were also brought up).
As this developed, American troops under General Sullivan (1st and 2nd Maryland) fell back from the Brandywine Creek towards the newly-formed American defensive line established by Generals Stirling and Stephen. During this maneuver, British Guards and artillery fired upon Sullivan’s men. Back at the Birmingham Meeting House, the Continental troops utilized the stone wall as a natural defensive barrier and prepared for the British onslaught (these troops were Marshall’s men from the 3rd Virginia Regiment).
The majority of the Continental troops established themselves at Birmingham Hill, just south of the Birmingham Meeting House near the American artillery. Around 4pm, the British marched forward with an organized and powerful frontal assault. As the British Grenadiers and Light Infantry mechanically moved down Birmingham Road and the surrounding fields, the American artillery opened up (the British artillery immediately responded).
Marshall’s men of the 3rd Virginia Regiment in advance positions at the Birmingham Meeting House were the first to meet the oncoming British assault. These men fought valiantly, using the (now iconic) stone wall to their advantage. As the battle unfolded, the Marquis de Lafayette and a group of French officers rode down the Birmingham Road and onto the field. Lafayette joined General Conway’s Pennsylvania Brigade, immediately involved himself in the fight, and attempted to rally the American troops. It was amidst the chaos of battle when Lafayette was hit in leg by a British musket ball- the 19-year-old Frenchman had received his first wound in his first battle for the American cause.
Around 5pm, General Sullivan’s troops (who were still forming the American left flank) were met by a renewed charge of British troops and artillery fire from two 12-pound guns. The British assaulted the American left and used their bayonets to intimidate the American troops; however, to their surprise, they were met with fierce resistance and the butts of American muskets. It took five British assaults on the American left flank on Birmingham Hill before the exhausted American troops finally gave way just before 6pm. Around the same time, Washington’s troops along the Brandywine experienced light resistance from troops under General Knyphausen- this was simply a ruse. It soon became clear to Washington that Knyphausen’s reticence to attack and the heavy fighting to the north meant the real battle had already begun.
The American troops under Generals Sullivan, Sterling, and Stephen retreated towards Dilworthtown just as General Washington was spurring his horse north towards the musket and artillery fire (in company was Timothy Pickering, Henry Knox, Alexander Hamilton, and Casimir Pulaski). Close behind were two Continental divisions under General Nathanael Greene, which moved at lightning pace to support the retreating American troops. As the sun began to get low in the sky, scattered fighting erupted near Dilworthtown, elevated in its deadliness by a pair of Henry Knox’s artillery pieces.
It was here near Dilworthtown that the grand Battle of Brandywine came to an end around 7pm. Pulaksi’s cavalry and General Greene’s divisions acted as a rearguard to protect the retreating American Army, which marched down the Concord Road towards Chester, Pennsylvania.
Interesting Facts
- The British Army under Generals Howe and Cornwallis marched a total of 17 miles in 9 hours to attack the American right flank
- The first battle the Marquis de Lafayette fought in during the American Revolution was the Battle of Brandywine (he had arrived in North America less than 3 months before). He received a musket ball to the leg for his troubles
- The Battle of Brandywine was the largest and longest single-day battle of the American Revolution (~11 hours long), involved over 30,000 troops between the two armies, resulted in the most casualties of any battle in the war, and covered 35,000 acres.
Our Visit & Recommendations
When I began researching the best way to explore the Brandywine Battlefield, I was overwhelmed by the vastness and disjunction of the historic sites. While there is a preserved 52-acre Brandywine Battlefield Park, it is but a small subsection of the massive 35,000 acre battlefield, which is now covered with neighborhoods, businesses, and highways. There are a few good tours/maps of the battlefield and historic sites, especially on the Brandywine Battlefield Associates website at: brandywinebattlefield.org (we used their tour map occasionally during our visit).
We spent nearly an entire day driving around and stopping at historic sites, which included some delays from getting lost and having to double back to see something we had missed (there are quite literally dozens of stops, markers, and tablets around Chester and Delaware Counties). Thus, our aim here is to provide a concise and simple tour of the “must see” sites (specific addresses are added where possible). The below maps highlight 15 stops associated with the Battle of Brandywine, numbered 1 through 15 on a recommended route (although it is not precisely in the order of what occurred during the battle). Of course, you are welcome to go in any order and stop anywhere you would like!
The tour begins at Jefferis Ford (1103 Allerton Road, West Chester, PA) and then essentially follows the route that the British Army would have marched, down the Birmingham Road and to the fields and locations that witnessed the hottest fighting of the day. The 15 suggested tour stops are as follows:
1 – Jefferis Ford, 2 – Sconnelltown Tablet, 3 – Osborne Hill, 4 – Fair Meadow Farm, 5 – Birmingham Lafayette Cemetery & Birmingham Friend’s Meeting House, 6 – Birmingham Hill Park, 7 – Lafayette Monument, 8 – Sandy Hollow Park, 9 – Lafayette Tablet, 10 – Dilworthtown Inn & Tablet, 11 – The Battle Ends Tablet, 12 – Brandywine Battlefield Park, 13 – John Chad House, 14 – Chadd’s Ford/Brandywine Creek, 15 – Old Kennett Meeting House
Of note, many of the historic tablets are very small, low to the ground, and close to a busy road. Be very cautious when parking and walking around the see them!
1 – Jefferis Ford (1103 Allerton Rd, West Chester, PA 19382)
Jefferis Ford was where British Generals Howe and Cornwallis crossed the Brandywine Creek with nearly 11,000 troops at 11am on September 11, 1777. Today, there is a small bridge that crosses the Brandywine near the spot of the crossing. If you desire to get out and explore, I recommend parking along North Creek Road and walking to the bridge/crossing (but be very cautious of traffic- I was a bit surprised by how many cars were driving down those roads!).
2 – Sconnelltown Tablet
During its march south down the Birmingham Road, British General Cornwallis’ Division halted in Sconnelltown for a brief respite before resuming the march. This small marker (placed in 1915) will be on your right (low to the ground) near the intersection of Birmingham Road and Squires Drive and in front of a private residence.
3 – Osborne Hill
Osborne Hill (spelled “Osbourne” as well) is where the British Army halted on its march down the Birmingham Road. It was here that General Howe used the hill to observe and direct the movements of his troops, as they approached the American positions. Today, there is a small marker atop a rise on the left side of Birmingham Road (near the intersection with Country Club Road); however, the actual Osborne Hill is a few hundred yards to the northeast of this marker. Because there is no dedicated parking, take caution if you decide to park along one of the side road for a brief look.
4 – Fair Meadow Farm (Private Residence)
As you drive south down Birmingham Road, Fair Meadow Farm will be off to your left before you reach the intersection with West Street Road (926). Fair Meadow Farm has its origins in 1740, when it was then known as the Daniel Davis House. It is in these fields that the British Light Infantry advanced towards the American positions and it was here where the first shots of this part of the battle occurred. This is currently a private residence/farm, but it is neat to see as you drive by.
5 – Birmingham Lafayette Cemetery & Birmingham Friend’s Meeting House (1235 Birmingham Rd, West Chester, PA 19382)
This now peaceful cemetery was once the site of fierce fighting between British and American troops. The area, along with the adjacent Birmingham Friend’s Meeting House, has long served as Quaker land and burial grounds. Today, there are multiple monuments dedicated near the entrance of the cemetery. Many of these were dedicated between the 1890s and 1920s to General Casimir Pulaski, the Marquis de Lafayette, Colonel Isaac Taylor (who served in the 7th Pennsylvania Regiment under General Anthony Wayne), and Colonel Joseph McClellan (who also served under General Wayne).
The current Birmingham Friend’s Meeting House was built by Quakers in 1763 (although the location had been used by local Quakers since 1690). During the Battle of Brandywine, the meetinghouse was used as a field hospital for both British and American wounded; however, it came under British control following the battle. Just behind the meetinghouse is the Peace Garden, which encloses some very early Quaker graves (often unmarked and without headstones) and a large stone marker dedicated to a common grave of British and American soldiers who died in the area. It is worth taking the time to walk about the Peace Garden and reflect. Also, be sure to check out the low stone wall, which was used by the American soldiers for defense (a tablet dedicated to this defensive line is located on the street-side of the wall).
6 – Birmingham Hill Park (1272 Birmingham Rd, West Chester, PA 19382)
Birmingham Hill Park is part of the official Brandywine Battlefield Trail and a beautifully preserved portion of the battlefield. There is ample parking here and a grass trail that meanders around the open fields. It was in this area that the American line formed (specifically, the brigades under Generals Sullivan and Sterling) and engaged the assault by British Guards and Grenadiers. Although now a pastoral scene known for its beautiful grape hyacinth, just imagine the thousands of troops, booming cannons, and choking gun smoke that filled these fields on the afternoon of September 11, 1777.
7 – Lafayette Monument
As you continue south along the Birmingham Road, you will soon see the Lafayette Monument on your left. This was erected on September 11, 1895 “by the citizens and school children of Chester County, PA” to honor the Marquis de Lafayette. The monument states that it was “on the rising ground a short distance south of this spot, Lafayette was wounded at the Battle of Brandywine. September 11, 1777.” Of note, this monument is right next to a private residence and there is no dedicated parking, so be courteous when visiting!
8 – Sandy Hollow Park (1313 Birmingham Rd, West Chester, PA 19382)
Sandy Hollow Park is also part of the official Brandywine Battlefield Trail and was the site of the most intense fighting during the battle. There is a nice paved trail that circumnavigates the field (great for running or walking) and a few historical signs that provide detailed information about the battle and what occurred at Sandy Hollow. The reproduction 3-pound cannon at the park was dedicated by the Citizens of Birmingham Township on May 17, 2014. This is the same size/type of cannon the American Army used at the Battle of Brandywine.
9 – Lafayette Tablet
Near the entrance of Morning Star Farm (private property) is a newer stone and marker, which is believed to be the approximate location of where Lafayette was when he was wounded during the battle. There is not much to see here and it is in a neighborhood, so if you decide to stop by, be polite and brief.
10 – Dilworthtown Inn & Tablet (1388 Old Wilmington Pike, West Chester, PA 19382)
The Dilworthtown Inn (also known as the Dilworthtown House) was built in 1758 and was standing during the Battle of Brandywine. It served as a tavern and inn during the 18th century and was at the heart of the battle towards the end of the day. The Inn served as a field hospital and prison after the battle. Today, there is a restaurant and bistro associated with the Inn.
11 – The Battle Ends Tablet
Near the intersection of Dilworthtown Road and Wilmington Pike stands the above sign, which marks the approximate location of where the Battle of Brandywine concluded at nightfall on September 11 (it actually ended just southwest of this spot). To see this sign, you can stop in the parking lot of Enzo’s Italian Eatery and even grab some lunch!
12 – Brandywine Battlefield Park (1491 Baltimore Pike, Chadds Ford, PA 19317)
Brandywine Battlefield Park is a 52-acre preserved section of the battlefield, which has the Benjamin Ring House (General George Washington’s Headquarters) and the Gideon Gilpin House on the property. The Battlefield Park’s Visitor’s Center has a small museum, offers an orientation video, and is where you can purchase tickets to tour the beautiful and historic Ring and Gilpin houses. Towards the end of the battle, this area was overrun by British forces as the American Army retreated to the east. Gideon Gilpin and his family would have witnessed this terrifying event from their windows and unfortunately, would suffer greatly through the loss of his crops. Not to be missed is the remarkable tree standing next to the Gilpin House. The National Arborist Association recognizes this tree has standing since 1787, if not longer!
13 – John Chad House
A short drive down the Baltimore Pike from Brandywine Battlefield Park is the John Chad House, which was built around 1725 on the eastern side of the Brandywine Creek. Although John Chad died in 1760, his widow Elizabeth occupied the home during the Battle of Brandywine. On the rise near his house, Proctor’s American artillery occupied a series of redoubts during the battle. At this location, they had a commanding view of the creek and opposing bank. The John Chad House can be toured, and tickets and information are available at the Chadd’s Ford Historical Society across the street.
14 – Chadd’s Ford/Brandywine Creek
The best way to get down and see Brandywine Creek is to park at the Brandywine River Museum of Art. From this parking lot, you can find the trailhead and walk down to the trails that parallel the creek. Although it has changed some since 1777, it is easy to understand why the location was often used to cross (it is fairly shallow and has numerous little “islands”). It was here along the eastern shore of the creek that Washington’s Army dug in and prepared to defend Chadd’s Ford.
15 – Old Kennett Meeting House
Once you drive across Brandywine Creek, continue west down the Baltimore Pike to the last stop of the tour: the Old Kennett Meeting House (which will be on your right). First built in 1710, the current Meeting House was constructed in 1731 and retains most of the original structure. On the morning of September 11, some of the first shots of the battle rang out near the Old Kennett when General Maxwell’s Light Infantry engaged British and Hessian troops. At the time, the meetinghouse was surrounded by a stone wall, which the American soldiers used as defense. Today, some soldiers that were killed near the meetinghouse and nearby (including Hessian soldiers) are buried in the adjacent cemetery.
End of Tour
This concludes the tour- hopefully you had an opportunity to see and enjoy all of the sites. The Battle of Brandywine was a crucial part of the Philadelphia Campaign and the war as the whole. Although the British ultimately captured the revolutionary capital of Philadelphia, they could not capture or destroy the American fighting spirit. The American Army spent the winter of 1777-1778 at Valley Forge and would emerge in the spring of 1778 more prepared than ever to continue the war.
Book Recommendation: Brandywine by Michael C. Harris
Source(s): http://brandywinebattlefield.org/
I wish I would have had your map and recommendations when I visited in June! I will now have to return as I missed a lot!
An excellent recounting of the history from Cooch’s bridge to the Brandywine!