Concord and the Old North Bridge

In the early morning hours of April 19, 1775, about 700 British soldiers marched from Boston with one goal in mind: to seize the military stores and munitions hidden by the rebels in the countryside town of Concord, Massachusetts. Concord’s Old North Bridge played a central role in the action that day and remains a symbol of America’s rebellious beginnings. Today, the historic town of Concord embraces its role in America’s birth and any visit is sure to be informative and memorable. While the atmosphere around the Old North Bridge was once filled with gunfire, smoke, and the shouts of men, you can now stroll the peaceful grounds and appreciate the sacrifices made by ordinary men on that April day.

History

As recorded in the diary of Reverend William Emerson, it was between 1-2 AM on April 19, 1775 when Concord’s bells rang out- the alarm had been sounded (although it was Samuel Prescott and not Paul Revere that had arrived with the alarm, because Revere had been captured near Lincoln). The townspeople dutifully used the next few hours to relocate and hide large quantities of military stores throughout houses and fields in the area.

After a harrowing and unexpected encounter with militia on Lexington Green, the British troops marched into Concord around 7:30 AM. Various companies were immediately dispatched to secure the South and North bridges in town. Three companies under Captain Parsons marched across the North Bridge towards Colonel James Barrett’s Farm in search of hidden arms and munitions, two companies (of the 4th and 10th regiments) were positioned atop knolls a few hundred yards west of the North Bridge, and another company (of the 43rd regiment) under British Captain Walter Laurie remained near the bridge to guard it.

As British soldiers scoured the town and surrounding area in search of military arms and supplies, British Colonel Smith and Major Pitcairn settled in to their temporary headquarters at the Wright Tavern. From the tavern in the center of town, the two British leaders could easily dispatch orders and direct the movements of their men. Across the street was Old Hill Burying Ground, which offered a commanding view of Concord and beyond. From there, Colonel Smith and Major Pitcairn observed a growing group of colonial militia that gathered atop Punkatasset Hill beyond the Concord River. By 9 AM, there were over 400 militiamen from the towns of Concord, Acton, Bedford, Carlisle, and Lincoln gathered near Major John Buttrick’s farm to the west of the river.

The British troops did not find substantial military supplies in the town (to include 60 barrels of flour, 16 new carriage wheels), but whatever musket balls, tents, clothing, and other supplies they did find was thrown in the mill pond or destroyed in bonfires in the middle of the road. As these bonfires raged, the careless effort by the British actually set fire to the town’s Courthouse (townsfolk and British soldiers eventually put out this accidental fire).

As a column of smoke rose above the town of Concord, the hundreds of militiamen gathered on the knolls west of the North Bridge were alarmed and feared that the soldiers were intentionally burning the town. Militiaman Joseph Hosmer exclaimed: “will you let them burn the town down?” The men were determined to march into Concord to save the town and were led towards the North Bridge by Captain Isaac Davis and his Acton militia. As ~400-500 militiamen marched towards the North Bridge, the silence was broken only by the fifer, who is believed to have played the then well-known tune The White Cockade.

The 120 British soldiers stationed on the western side of the North Bridge under Captain Laurie witnessed the approaching militia and decided it prudent to cross back over the bridge and form defensive ranks along the eastern side. During this movement, the British soldiers tore up a few planks from the bridge in order to slow or perhaps even prevent the militia from crossing; however, it was not significant enough to stop the advancing militia. Although Captain Laurie never gave the command to fire, one or two British shots rang out and fell harmlessly into the river (Acton militiaman Thomas Thorp later recorded that he saw a British “ball strike the water”). By the time the militia were about 75 yards away, another British shot managed to wound two Concord militiamen. Finally, a British volley erupted that wounded militia fifer Luther Blanchard and killed Acton militiamen Abner Hosmer and Captain Isaac Davis. In response, Major Buttrick is believed to have exclaimed: “Fire, fellow soldiers, for God’s sake, fire!”

The militia volley proved to be deadly, as two British soldiers fell dead and one severely wounded, with eight or nine others wounded (one officer was fatally wounded). As the militia pressed forward and crossed the bridge, the British soldiers hastily fled down the road towards Concord and left their dead and wounded behind. The fight at the North Bridge took place around 10 AM.

Back at Barrett’s farm, Captain Parsons and his soldiers found no gunpowder or cannons, but simply a few gun carriages and some military stores. Upon hearing the volley of musket fire to the east, Captain Parsons reformed his troops and prepared to march back to Concord, not fully aware of the precarious position they had been put in; however, the militia did not capitalize on this advantage. In fact, after they had captured the bridge, the militia soon disbanded. Some returned to Major Buttrick’s farm, many lingered nearby, and some simply went home. This allowed Captain Parsons and his soldiers to safely cross the North Bridge (albeit in the face of hundreds of armed militia) and regroup with Colonel Smith in town.

Around noon, after a few hours of unsuccessful searching in Concord and the surrounding countryside, the British troops began to file out of town and back towards Boston (~18 or so miles away). From the heights of the Old Hill Burying Ground, Colonel Smith and Major Pitcairn witnessed a precarious number of militia that swarmed from all directions. The British march back to Boston would prove to be an exhausting and deadly affair.

Interesting Facts

• Famous American poet Ralph Waldo Emerson’s grandfather (William Emerson Sr.) witnessed the battle at the Old North Bridge from the window of his house (the Old Manse)
• The oldest known grave in the Old Hill Burying Ground is that of Joseph Meriam from 1677 (anyone buried before then was not given a tombstone, because there was a fear that local natives would learn how many colonists had died and possibly attack if they believed they were weak)
• The Colonel James Barrett Farm has been owned by only two families in its over 300 years of existence: the Barrett Family and the McGrath Family
• There are two time capsules placed underneath the base of the Minute Man Statue at the Old North Bridge. One was placed in 1875 and another in 1975 (each contain period items such as coins, newspapers, and books)

Our Visit & Recommendations

We have visited the charming and historic town of Concord on a number of occasions and in all seasons (our personal favorite time to visit is in autumn). Although Concord has managed to remain a fairly small and sleepy town, it boasts more American history than almost any place in the country! Other than the many famous writers and poets that have called Concord home (now buried along Author’s Ridge at Sleepy Hollow Cemetery), the town is best known for the action that took place on April 19, 1775.

We recommend beginning any trip to Concord at the Visitor Center in town located at 58 Main Street, Concord, MA 01742 (a short walk off the main road). Here you can grab a map of the town and ask any questions you may have. If it happens to be closed, you can visit their website (visitconcord.org) for additional info. While there are numerous historic houses, locations, and museums to visit in Concord, we will focus on the main historic sites associated with the events of April 19, 1775.

The Wright Tavern

The Wright Tavern, located on Monument Square (2 Lexington Road), was built in 1747 and was kept by Amos Wright in 1775 during the fighting in Concord (hence the name). Other than drinking and lodging, the tavern was used as a meeting place for various Committees of the Provincial Congress before war broke out. On April 19, it was a meeting place for the Concord minutemen and later in the day, served as the headquarters for British Colonel Smith and Major Pitcairn. Today, the Wright Tavern is used by the Concord Museum for educational space and by two architectural businesses (it is not generally open for tours).

The Mill Pond

A short walk down Main Street from the Wright Tavern is a large sign on the side of a building (near Coldwell Banker Realty), which commemorates the town’s former millpond. While this small body of water served the town of Concord for a myriad of reasons, it played a particular role of April 19, 1775. When British troops occupied the town and searched for military supplies and contraband, they did discover some stuff (despite the best efforts of the townspeople). After finding cannon balls, musket balls, and barrels of flours, the troops poured them all into the millpond to dispose of them. Unbeknownst to them, the townspeople simply recovered most of it after the soldiers left town!

Old Hill Burying Ground

Across Monument Square from the Wright Tavern is the Old Hill Burying Ground, located next to Holy Family Parish. Old Hill Burying Ground has its origins in the 1630s and was likely built upon this hill because the land couldn’t be used for farming. It was on the heights of this cemetery that British Colonel Smith and Major Pitcairn observed the colonial militia in the distance. At the time there was an unobstructed view for quite a distance, including down to the North Bridge and the Concord River; however, modern buildings and overgrowth have since blocked that view.

Today, around 500 people are laid to rest at the Old Hill Burying Ground, including many notable Concord natives and Revolutionary War patriots. This includes two men who played prominent roles on April 19, 1775: Colonel James Barrett and Colonel (Major) John Buttrick. The gravestones of these two men are in the southeastern portion of the cemetery (off to your right upon entering/walking up the hill). Although it would of been very expensive at the time, the gravestone of Colonel James Barrett proudly displays his family crest.

The Colonial Inn

If you are looking for a great place to grab lunch in town, look no further than the renowned Colonial Inn (48 Monument Square). Built in 1716, the building served a variety of purposes over the years, to include as a storage facility for colonial arms and munitions in 1775. During the events of April 19, Doctor Minot lived in what is now known as the Colonial Inn and he treated the wounded after the fight at the North Bridge. It wasn’t until 1889 when the building began operating as an Inn and the name changed to “The Colonial Inn” in 1900. Today, guest rooms can be rented and a full restaurant and bar offer outstanding food and drink. If you get the chance, be sure to sit outside and admire the very road the British troops marched down towards the Old North Bridge!

Also, be sure to check out the “Liberty Room” inside the Inn. This is the space that was used as a hospital for the wounded minute men after the fighting at the North Bridge.

Elisha Jones House (The “Bullet Hole House”)

Portions of what is known as the Elisha Jones House were possibly built as early as the mid-1600s! When war came to Concord on that April day, it was owned and occupied by farmer Elisha Jones and his family. This building earned the nickname the “Bullet Hole House,” due to events that played out on April 19, 1775. The story goes that while the British troops retreated from the North Bridge, Elisha Jones (who had supposedly helped hide patriot munitions that day) stood in his doorway, watching them frantically pass by. During this retreat, a British soldier is believed to have taken a shot at Elisha, narrowly missing him. Today, the bullet hole to the right of the front door is said to have been from a British musket ball intended for Jones!

The Old North Bridge

The most iconic site in Concord is the Old North Bridge, which is now part of the Minute Man National Historical Park and administered by the National Park Service (NPS). There are two places you can park and begin your visit to the Old North Bridge. If you’re driving down Monument Street from Concord, the easiest place to park is near the Robbins House (320 Monument Street) across the street from the Old Manse. This is my personal favorite place to park, because it offers an easy and beautiful walk to the bridge (especially in autumn).

The other option is to park at the North Bridge Visitor Center (174 Liberty Street), which offers a small exhibit, gift shop, and park rangers to answer any questions (there is usually a ranger at the North Bridge as well). Of note, the walk to the North Bridge from this Visitor Center is about 1/4 of a mile (a bit longer than the other route). Regardless of where you decide to begin your visit to the Old North Bridge, you will undoubtedly be overcome with reverence as you approach the sacred grounds.

Near the bridge (on the eastern side of the Concord River), you will notice a remarkable Georgian home with a gambrel roof. This appealing home is known as the “Old Manse” (269 Monument Street) and it boasts a connection to some of the brightest literary minds of American history to include Nathaniel Hawthorne and Ralph Waldo Emerson. Furthermore, being built in 1769-70, the home was in that very spot during the fighting at the Old North Bridge. To me, one of the most interesting facts about the house is that Reverend William Emerson Sr. (grandfather to Ralph Waldo Emerson) and his family actually witnessed the battle at the Old North Bridge from their second floor window! If you wish to tour the Old Manse, it is open to the public.

Close by stands the famous Old North Bridge- the “rude bridge that arched the flood.” The original bridge that was there on April 19, 1775, is long gone (it was taken down in 1788). There was actually a long period after the war where there was no bridge at this location at all! In 1874, construction began on a “Centennial Bridge” for the year 1875; however, it was destroyed by a flood and again rebuilt in 1889. Remarkably, this bridge was also destroyed by a flood and another was built at this spot in 1909. The current structure that you see today is the fifth bridge at this location and was built in 1956 and restored in 2005 (the 1909 bridge was destroyed in a hurricane).

One of the reasons this ground is considered sacred is because there are actual soldiers buried here. Near the eastern end of the bridge is the grave of three British soldiers who were killed there on April 19. A stone marker reads:

They came three thousand miles and died to keep the past upon its throne. Unheard beyond the ocean tide, their English mother made her moan – April 19, 1775.”

Near this grave marker and at the head of the bridge is an obelisk battle monument, which was erected in 1836 and dedicated in 1837 (it is wild to think that it has been standing there for over 180 years). This monument reads:

Here on the 19 of April 1775 was made the first forcible resistance to British aggression. On the opposite bank stood the American Militia. Here stood the invading Army and on this spot the first of the Enemy fell in the War of that Revolution, which gave Independence to these United States. In gratitude to GOD and in the love of freedom, this monument was erected AD 1836.”

As you walk across the Old North Bridge, be sure to admire the peaceful and meandering Concord River below- the river is a favorite to canoe and kayak at all times of the year! As you cross over to the American side, you will see one of the most famous symbols of Concord and the American Revolution: the Minute Man Statue. This iconic statue was designed by Daniel Chester French (who would later go on to design the Lincoln Memorial), stands at seven feet tall, and is cast in bronze from 10 old Civil War cannons. The statue was unveiled on April 19, 1875 in a celebration that was attended by President Ulysses S. Grant and Ralph Waldo Emerson.

While standing on this side, I always like to look back across the bridge to imagine what the colonial militia were thinking as they stared at the professional British soldiers on the other side. Little did they know that they would fire “the shot heard round the world” and set into motion a revolution that would change everything!

As you continue to walk down the path, you will see historic markers and information panels that provide additional details about the events on April 19, 1775. This path also takes you to the North Bridge Visitor Center and the Major John Buttrick House.

Muster Field

This “Muster Field” is where the nearly 400 Concord militiamen mustered in the early morning hours of April 19, 1775. Here they stood when they defiantly determined to march towards the British troops stationed at the North Bridge. The rest is history!

Major John Buttrick House

Across Liberty Street from the North Bridge Visitor Center stands the Major John Buttrick House (he eventually became known as Colonel). Major John Buttrick led the militia companies in the fight at the North Bridge and gave the famous order “Fire, fellow soldiers, for God’s sake, fire!” The fine yellow house was built in 1715 and served a central role on April 19. This is where the militia initially mustered and following the fight at the North Bridge, the bodies of Isaac Davis and Abner Hosmer (the two colonial militiamen killed) were brought to Major Buttrick’s house. John Buttrick, “having with patriotic firmness shared in the dangers which led to American Independence” was able to “enjoy the blessings of it” and died on May 16, 1791 at 60 years old (he is buried in the Old Hill Burying Grounds). The Buttrick House is currently used for NPS staff and is not open to the public for tours.

Colonel James Barrett Farm

Approximately 1.5 miles west of the Old North Bridge is the Colonel James Barrett Farm (448 Barretts Mill Road). This farm was one of the primary goals of the British troops on April 19, 1775, because they believed colonial arms and munitions were stashed away here (although they did not find much, to include the sought after gunpowder and cannon). The circa 1705 house and surrounding land is listed in the National Register of Historic Places. Incredibly, the Barrett Farm lands are still cultivated and farmed to this day! Colonel James Barrett died on April 11, 1779 at the age of 69 (he nearly died on the 4th anniversary of the battle at the Old North Bridge).

Concord Museum

One of the greatest collections of original American Revolution artifacts, especially those from the fight at the Old North Bridge, is on display at the Concord Museum (53 Cambridge Turnpike, Concord, MA 01742). The collection includes many period items associated with April 19, 1775 to include flintlock pistols owned by Major John Buttrick, an impressive collection of powder horns carried by the militia, musket flints dropped by the militia near the North Bridge, cannonballs that were tossed into the Concord mill pond by British troops, the original front door to the Barrett House, and the frock coat used by Daniel Chester French to model his famous Minute Man Statue.

The Concord Museum also displays a number of other remarkable original items from the American Revolution. To me, the most incredible item on display is one of the original lanterns that was hung in the steeple of Boston’s North Church on the night of April 18, 1775 (as made famous by the phrase “one if by land, two if by sea”).

Legacy

The events that took place in Concord and at the Old North Bridge will forever live on in American history and lore. Thankfully, generations have believed it to be their duty to preserve the sacred grounds and honor the history of the men and women who played a role on that April day. Of course, famed author Ralph Waldo Emerson memorialized it best in the Concord Hymn:

By the rude bridge that arched the flood,
Their flag to April’s breeze unfurled,
Here once the embattled farmers stood,
And fired the shot heard round the world.

The foe long since in silence slept;
Alike the conqueror silent sleeps;
And Time the ruined bridge has swept
Down the dark stream which seaward creeps.

On this green bank, by this soft stream,
We set today a votive stone;
That memory may their deed redeem,
When, like our sires, our sons are gone.

Spirit, that made those heroes dare,
To die, and leave their children free,
Bid Time and Nature gently spare
The shaft we raise to them and thee.”

Ralph Waldo Emerson

Book recommendation: Paul Revere’s Ride by David Hackett Fischer & The Battle Road by Charles H. Bradford

Source(s): https://www.nps.gov/mima/index.htm, The Battle Road by Charles H. Bradford