Perhaps the most iconic image of a colonial townscape is the church spire that towers above the rest. As a symbol of the religion that early American communities often centered around, these churches served an important role in all aspects of the people’s lives. Trinity Church in Newport, Rhode Island is the quintessential New England church and has dominated the local skyline for nearly 300 years. What’s more is that Trinity Church is still an active Episcopal Parish and you can attend Sunday service!
History
In 1698, Trinity’s first congregation was established and comprised of Anglicans, Quakers and Huguenots. Records state that Sir Francis Nicholson, a prominent soldier and politician, was the church’s original founder. Their first church was built around 1700; however, the fast growing community realized they required a church to meet their needs and in 1726, the Georgian-style Trinity Church was completed (it was designed by architect Richard Munday). The interior of the church features box pews, which were designed to maintain warmth during the harsh winter months. Trinity Church quickly became a centerpiece of Newport’s waterfront community and the town and church continued to grow.
From 1729 to late 1731, an English philosopher named George Berkeley lived in north Newport (Middletown today). He was very much connected to the Trinity community- he would occasionally preach at the church and his infant daughter was buried in the Trinity churchyard. After returning to England, George Berkeley commissioned and donated an organ to Trinity Church in 1733. The wooden case of the organ (which is still in the church today), is decorated with the Crown of England and the miters (religious headgear) of the archbishops of Canterbury and York.
In the early 1760s the building was enlarged to accommodate the larger congregation, which resulted in the current seven-bay structure (two more than the original five-bay design). From 1767-68, Trinity’s iconic five-story steeple with spire and tower was constructed on the original building.
When the American Revolution broke out in April 1775, citizens of the important and wealthy Newport likely realized their town was bound to play an important role in the conflict (Rhode Island and Newport colonists had already taken rebellious actions against the Crown in the preceding years). As a British invasion loomed, many citizens left town (most to never return) as a few local Loyalists awaited the protection of the King’s soldiers.
On December 8, 1776, British warships arrived in Newport harbor, landed troops to essentially zero opposition and occupied the town. British General Henry Clinton and his approximately 7,000 troops quickly seized numerous houses, stole much of the food and resources and destroyed structures, fences and cut down trees for fire wood to survive the winter (an estimated 200 buildings were destroyed). Trinity Church survived vandalism and ruin, which has been attributed to the weathervane that featured the royal crown (other local churches and places of worship weren’t so lucky).
As the war continued to progress and evolve, it became clear that the British force stationed in Newport was not going to be utilized for an overland campaign; therefore, this force abandoned Newport on October 25, 1779 and headed to New York City. Many of the Trinity Church parishioners were Loyalists and left with the British Army to New York (this included the minister, Mr. Bisset). It is written that a few days after the British left town, a few young men (including two American officers) stole Trinity Church’s altarpiece (a design of the King’s Arms- the lion and the unicorn), trampled upon it and then used it for target practice.
On July 10-11, 1780, a French fleet under the command of Admiral Chevalier de Ternay arrived in Narragansett Bay and disembarked nearly 6,000 troops in Newport, under the command of General Comte de Rochambeau. This French force was to coordinate with General Washington and his army in support of the American Revolution. Admiral de Ternay served as the commander of the ship Duc de Bourgogne, but also established a headquarters at the elegant house of Colonel Joseph Wanton Jr., who had fled Newport due to his loyalist leanings (later purchased by William Hunter, the house is now known as the “Hunter House”).
Unfortunately, on the morning of December 15, 1780, the French Admiral Ternay died of typhus- he was but 57-years-old (in his honor, a cannon was fired every half-hour from his flagship Duc de Bourgogne, until his burial and flags were placed at half-mast). On December 16, an elaborate procession was carried out, which included soldiers, sailors, and nine Catholic priests. After solemnly passing through the streets of Newport, the Admiral’s body was brought to Trinity Churchyard for burial. Despite Trinity Church being Anglican, de Ternay received a Catholic burial (perhaps the very first ever held in Rhode Island!). Today, his grave is marked with a massive granite slab placed around 1872.
Buried nearby are two French officers who died earlier in 1780 (both have markers today). One is Lieutenant Augustin Benjamin Lavilmarais from the frigate L’Hermione, who died on July 22, 1780 at 37-years-old. The other is Major Pierre du Rousseau, chevalier de Fayolle, who died on June 8, 1780 at 34-years-old. He served as an aide to the Marquis de Lafayette.
On March 6, 1781, George Washington arrived in Newport to meet with French General Rochambeau and his staff to discuss upcoming military operations. During this visit, Washington is said to have worshipped at Trinity Church. On March 13, Washington departed Newport for his headquarters in New Windsor, New York.
Following the American Revolution, the congregation at Trinity Church persevered. In the late 1800s, Trinity became the social church for those who would summer in Newport (the town became a summer favorite of the wealthy from up and down the eastern seaboard). In the 1920s, historical architect Norman Isham restored many parts of Trinity Church to ensure its historical accuracy and preservation.
In July 1976, Queen Elizabeth II and Prince Philip, Duke of Edinburgh, visited Newport, Rhode Island during the bicentennial celebrations. During her visit, she attended services at Trinity Church and then dedicated Queen Anne Square, the park in which the church now sits. Trinity Church continues to thrive as an active Episcopal Parish and a favorite spot to visit by tourists and historians alike.
Interesting Facts
- Trinity’s wine-glass pulpit is the only center-aisle, freestanding, three-tiered pulpit remaining in the United States
- The various shapes and sizes of the box pews represented the congregation itself- the early parishioners of Trinity Church paid for their own pew (to defray the cost of the church)
- Notable parishioners include: John Jacob Astor VI, Commodores Oliver Hazard Perry and Matthew C. Perry, U.S. Vice President Levi Morton, Admiral Raymond Spruance, painter Gilbert Stuart and Cornelius Vanderbilt II
Our Visit & Recommendations
Today, Trinity Church is located in what is known as Queen Anne’s Square, which was dedicated on July 10, 1976 by Queen Elizabeth II and is the site of Newport’s earliest settlement. The square/park is a beautiful stretch of land between Thames and Spring Streets, with Trinity Church as the focal point. Historic homes line each side of the square (Newport boasts more than 320 18th century buildings), stone benches are placed about for relaxing and a Starbucks is nearby to get your coffee fix.
If you wish to tour the interior of Trinity Church, the schedule is as follows: from Memorial Day to November 1st, Monday through Saturday 10am – 4pm and Sunday 1130am – 1230pm (tours are only available on Sunday during the winter season). We have visited a few times- we usually just walk in and begin exploring; however, the church occasionally has a volunteer guide there to answer questions and give a brief tour (a $5 donation is recommended, but not required).
When you enter the church there are many things to see in the vestibule (entrance) and along the walls of the church interior. As you walk down the middle aisle towards the unique wine-glass shaped pulpit, you will get a good view of the organ in the choir loft. If you continue down the middle aisle and stop just before the center-aisle pulpit, make sure you visit pew #81 on your right. In this box pew, her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II and George Washington both worshipped. Small plaques have been placed within the pew to commemorate those visits.
After we explored the interior of the church we headed out to the adjacent cemetery, which has gravestones dating back to the early 1700s. You can look on findagrave.com to see who exactly is buried here; however, perhaps the most famous is French Admiral Ternay, whose large gravestone is hard to miss.
Trinity Church has long been the centerpiece of Newport’s bustling waterfront. When you visit, you’ll be gazing upon the very church that Americans, British and French soldiers looked at throughout our nation’s earliest beginnings and that locals and tourists have seen ever since. If you are exploring downtown Newport and the shops on Thames Street, Trinity Church is always nearby. Visit to appreciate the beautiful Georgian architecture, attend a Sunday service or simply to honor and remember those buried in the churchyard.