It was a cold and drab December day when we visited the Valley Forge National Historical Park. We always try to make our visits as realistic as possible; therefore, we visited during the same month that Washington’s Army marched into Valley Forge. A feeble attempt no doubt, but we tried to connect to those tired and bedraggled men who felt that chilled December breeze on their faces as they settled into their winter encampment on that bleak landscape.
History
General Washington and his army experienced numerous devastating defeats as the leaves began to change in the fall of 1777.
In August, the Philadelphia Campaign began when British General Howe landed with nearly 15,000 troops along the banks of the Elk River on the northern shore of Chesapeake Bay, less than 60 miles southwest of Philadelphia. Washington maneuvered and positioned his army to best defend the capital city and prepared for battle. On September 11, the Continental Army suffered defeat along the Brandywine Creek after being flanked and outmaneuvered by the British Army. Then on September 20, the Battle of Paoli (sorrowfully known as the Paoli Massacre) was fought northwest of Philadelphia, which further solidified British dominance in the region.
On September 26, 1777, General Howe and the British Army marched unopposed into Philadelphia (the Continental Congress abandoned the capital city a few days before and ultimately settled in York, PA).
Washington’s last effort to repulse the British occurred on October 4 in Germantown, Pennsylvania. The Battle of Germantown had promise of an American victory; however, an eerie fog intervened and caused confusion and panic amongst the ranks and led to a British victory. The campaigning season had come to an end.
On December 19, 1777, General George Washington and his army of 12,000 soldiers and a few hundred women and children marched down the Gulph Road into Valley Forge to set up winter quarters. Valley Forge (so named for an iron forge built along Valley Creek) was chosen for a myriad of reasons, including the advantageous terrain, the proximity to Philadelphia and it enabled the American Army to protect the Pennsylvania countryside.
After the army constructed nearly 1,500 cabins (per Washington’s orders, dimensions were fourteen by sixteen feet with a fireplace at the end) and nearly two miles of fortifications, they settled in for a long winter. The Valley Forge encampment would become the fourth largest city in the colonies at the time.
Many hardships were suffered by the diminishing Continental Army during those six months in camp. There was a severe lack of shoes and proper clothing, a scarcity of food and little to no payment for their service. Washington and his leadership knew that great changes would have to take place that winter in order for there to be any chance of success in the spring. While the army underwent a long and detailed transformation at Valley Forge, there were two primary changes: a revamping of the supply system and the establishment of a disciplined training regimen.
By the winter of 1777-1778, the Continental Army’s supply system greatly lacked the leadership and infrastructure it required. Men were suffering from a lack of warm clothing and an inconsistent food supply. The situation became so dire in the new year that General Washington nominated the well-organized and experienced General Nathanael Greene as Quartermaster General. In March 1778, General Greene reluctantly agreed to the post and quickly instituted widespread changes that positively impacted the army.
Another deficiency that greatly plagued the Continental Army in its early years was a severe lack of discipline and technical military training. On February 23, 1778, an intriguing man arrived at Valley Forge to change just that. The Baron Friedrich Wilhelm von Steuben had an interesting (and exaggerated) military past; however, General Washington seemed to trust the volunteer and he would eventually be appointed Inspector General of the Army. Baron von Stueben’s impact was rapid and remarkable. He walked the camp, talked with the common soldier, inspected their cabins and instituted standardized sanitation and living requirements.
Perhaps the greatest impact General Steuben made on the Continental Army was the discipline and training he instilled in the soldiers. He progressively taught proper military drills, maneuvers and tactics (including proper use of the bayonet), which transformed a ragged group of men into a prepared fighting force. General Steuben eventually compiled all of his training into the guide Regulations for the Order and Discipline of the Troops of the United States (known also as the “Blue Book”).
Although the Continental Army’s time at Valley Forge was filled with suffering, starvation and death, it was a transformative experience. Those that suffered through and survived the hardships were better for it- the soldiers gained invaluable training and increased morale from General Steuben and the supply system was saved by the talents of General Greene- both necessities if they were to survive the spring campaign. In May 1778, Washington received official word that France had entered in an alliance with America. This remarkable news bolstered the morale and pride of every soldier in camp and rejuvenated the cause for American liberty.
On June 19, 1778, General Washington marched his new found army out of Valley Forge to continue the fight for American Independence.
5 Historic Sites – Valley Forge National Historical Park
The Valley Forge National Historical Park is a beautifully preserved and well-organized national park. Be sure to first stop by the Visitor Center at Valley Forge (1400 N Outer Line Dr, King of Prussia, PA 19406). Here you can shop for books, souvenirs and grab a detailed map of the park and grounds. We decided to follow the recommended (and self-guided) driving route and visited each tour stop along the way. If the weather is nice and you are up for the challenge, the park has 26 miles of trails throughout its 3,500 acres that you can walk/run to each location.
1 – Muhlenberg Brigade – Soldier’s Huts
Our first stop was to the nine reconstructed soldiers huts (log cabins, really) that sit where General Peter Muhlenberg’s Brigade was camped. Most of these structures are open for touring, with a few furnished to show what life was like for the soldiers and officers who lived there.
2 – National Memorial Arch & General Wayne Statue
Next on the tour is the towering National Memorial Arch. The stone monument was originally built to serve as one of the park entrances (since the park once had a fence surrounding it). It was dedicated in 1917 to to commemorate the arrival of Washington and his troops and to honor the sacrifices and resiliency of those men who suffered through the winter at Valley Forge.
A bit further down the tour rode is a statue of General “Mad” Anthony Wayne on horseback. This statue is placed near the campsite of the Pennsylvania soldiers, who served under General Wayne.
3 – Washington’s Headquarters (Isaac Pott’s House)
The Isaac Potts House was believed to have been constructed in 1773 for Isaac Potts and his family. By the winter of 1777, it was inhabited by a Mrs. Deborah Hewes (a Potts family relative), who rented out the house with all of its furnishings to General Washington and his staff of 20-25 officers (including servant staff). It was in this crowded stone house that Washington and his staff lived and worked for six months.
Before taking a tour of Washington’s Headquarters, it is recommended to first visit the nearby 1911 Valley Forge Train Station (now a museum), which has exhibits about Washington’s Headquarters.
Unfortunately for us, our visit was during a government shutdown and many of the buildings at the park were closed (including the Isaac Potts House and Valley Forge Station). Luckily, a Youtube video tour of the Isaac Potts House can be accessed through the Valley Forge Historical National Park page on the National Parks Service website.
Behind Washington’s Headquarters are reconstructed huts that would have housed the Commander-in-Chief’s Guards (also known as Washington’s Life Guards). These specially chosen men served essentially as General Washington’s personal body guards and security detail.
4 – Artillery Park
During the winter encampment, General Henry Knox kept a majority of the army’s artillery at this centralized location known as Artillery Park. This enabled his men to quickly move cannons anywhere around the camp if needed for defense.
Nominally, each 6-pounder gun crew was comprised of 14 – 15 men, which would ensure a steady rate of fire and efficiency; however, having a fully-manned crew in actual combat was very unlikely. Today, over a dozen cannons are laid out in a similar fashion to how they likely would have been in 1777-1778. The nearby Redoubt #3 is a great place to see one of the earthen defenses that would have been used to place artillery.
5 – Washington Memorial Chapel
The Washington Memorial Chapel was our last stop. As an active Episcopal parish, this beautiful church acts as a memorial to General George Washington and the men of Valley Forge. Its exterior was completed in 1917 and the opulent interior was completed in 1921.
The attached tower is named the National Patriots Bell Tower and Carillon and was completed in 1953 (after 12 years of construction and delays during the Second World War). This 102 foot tall bell tower was funded by the National Society of the Daughters of the American Revolution and displays the Justice Bell in its main room (a near twin to the Liberty Bell).
Behind the church is the Chapel Cabin Shop, where you can buy souvenirs or even grab a small lunch.
Legacy
The winter encampment at Valley Forge is one of the most recognizable events in American history. The suffering of the selfless soldier, the seemingly miraculous transformation of the Continental Army and the revelation of an intrepid and resilient American spirit evoke a unique pride and dignity in many of us. Visiting the grounds where nearly 2,000 men died of starvation, exposure and disease truly brings to life the ultimate sacrifices that were made to give us the freedom we enjoy today.
Book recommendations: Valley Forge, by Bob Drury and Tom Clavin & Epic on the Schuylkill, by John B. B. Trussell Jr.
Who and what organizations were responsible for saving Washingtons Headquarters?
The Centennial and Memorial Association of Valley Forge is credited with saving/preserving the house and other parts of the modern National Park.