Most know about the California gold rush of the 19th century (even an NFL team, the San Francisco 49ers, is named for the 1849 gold rush to the region); however, few have heard of the gold-mining town of Bodie, California. Despite being one of the most prolific gold mines of the century, Bodie had a brief bout of success and a long, slow decline.
We were leaving a family camping trip in Bridgeport, California when we decided to stop by the spooky ghost town of Bodie. Tucked away in the Bodie Hills near the Nevada border (and only an hour from Yosemite National Park), the abandoned gold-mining town seems to be trapped in the past where time has stopped. While the valley Bodie is situated often experiences high winds (due to its elevation of 8,375 feet) and harsh snow storms in the winter, we had excellent weather during our summer visit.
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History
In the mid-1800s, gold had been discovered in the high desert of the Eastern Sierra Mountains, which brought thousands to the region in search of striking it rich. A man by the name of Waterman S. Bodey was one of those gold seekers.
In 1859, Bodey and a group of fellow prospectors found a promising tract of land with the potential of major gold deposits and set up a small mining camp. Unfortunately, Bodey died in a blizzard in November 1859 during a supply trip to nearby Monoville (he was found after the snow and ice thawed and is buried in the town cemetery). Mining in Bodie through the 1860s and early 1870s were slow and only a few determined and industrious miners stayed throughout that time.
Bodie’s luck changed in 1876 when the Standard Mining Company discovered a large deposit of gold and silver ore. In 1877, Bodie’s population exploded with prospectors hoping to get rich off of the strike. Houses, saloons and general stores began to pop up along the dirt streets of town to accommodate the influx of citizens. By 1879, Bodie boasted a population of nearly 8,500 people and more than 2,000 buildings (which included over 60 saloons).
This rapid increase in population included many desperate men, outlaws and those of ill repute. Unsurprisingly, the town became known for gun fights, robberies and stage hold ups- Bodie quickly gained a reputation of lawlessness and violence. Reverend F. M. Warrington once described Bodie as “a sea of sin, lashed by the tempests of lust and passion.”
While Bodie was a grand and lucrative success (over 10,000 tons of ore were extracted there), its prosperity was brief. In 1881, the town began its decline as the mines were depleted of its precious ore and many of the companies went bankrupt. By 1886, the town’s population hovered around 1,500 citizens- Bodie would never again be the boomtown it was in the late 1870s.
Bodie remained an active town throughout the early 1900s and survived a horrendous fire in 1932. It wasn’t until the 1940s that Bodie ceased to support a population when the last mine closed in 1942 due to a war order that closed all non-essential gold mines.
Interesting Facts
- Many visitors have taken pieces of Bodie home with them (old nails, pieces of wood, etc.) and have reported hauntings, poor health or simply bad-luck taking place afterwards. Dozens have mailed back these items to the Bodie State Historic Park office with apology letters in hopes of ridding of the dark spirits that followed them home
- A fire in 1932 destroyed 90% of the town and its buildings (what remains today is the surviving 10%)
- Bodie had actual residents living there up until the 1940s, but was first considered a ghost town around 1915
- Winter snowfall in Bodie averages between 3-6 feet (with drifts over 20 feet high)
- The town’s name changed from “Bodey” (after first prospector W. S. Bodey) to the eventual “Bodie.” This is said to be attributed to a sign that was made for the town with “Bodie Stables” painted on it (the spelling stuck)
Our Visit & Recommendations
Bodie State Historic Park was founded in 1962 to protect the remaining buildings of the town (it was also designated a National Historic Landmark). There is an $8 entrance fee for adults and $5 for children 16 and under (only cash or check are accepted) and you pay at the park entrance station.
Our first view of the ghost town was a sea of scattered buildings under a deep blue sky that stretched to the far reaches of the high desert- a stunning and eerie sight. Near the edges of town were massive pieces of rusted mining equipment that seems haphazardly placed and a few informative signs that give detailed information about the historic park and Bodie’s past. We couldn’t wait to explore!
Upon entering the town, we were struck by the dilapidated condition of the buildings. What we learned was that the remaining structures in Bodie are considered in a state of “arrested decay,” meaning no attempt to improve the structures is made; however, Bodie State Historic Park will prevent them from falling over or deteriorating any further. The interior of the houses and buildings are left as they were when they were last inhabited- as if the townspeople simply vanished (this really adds to Bodie’s ghostly atmosphere!).
Most buildings were missing windows and doors and could be walked through as desired, while others had to be viewed from the outside. One of the more popular ruins in town is the old Bodie Bank. All that remains of the original wooden structure is the brick bank vault casing and the ornate green 19th century bank vault.
While the Bodie State Historic Park is open year-round (snow and road closures permitting), the museum and visitors center are only open from mid-May to mid-October. Visiting in June, we were able to check out the visitors center and small museum. There are a ton of cool artifacts on display and it offers a great deal of information on 19th century gold mining techniques and technology.
The visitors center also displays the numerous letters written by past visitors who have taken souvenirs from the park home with them. These souvenir-stealers returned the items along with apology letters, claiming that bad luck and hauntings followed them home.
To really experience the spooky and supernatural side of the ghost town, take the Bodie Ghost Walk tour! The walking tour happens at night and explores the ghost stories and haunting legends of Bodie. It usually only occurs three times a year (spread out over the summer months) and sells out quickly; however, if you do not wish to take the tour or miss out on tickets, the town is open until 10pm for the general public during those dates (so you can explore on your own).
Though once a bustling mining town with seemingly endless possibilities and wealth, Bodie now offers a rare glimpse into the past. It is hard to believe that its desolate streets and decrepit buildings were once inhabited by thousands of hopeful people. Let it serve as a reminder of man’s greed and that all earthly things are temporary.
A great and memoable experience. Enjoyed the fact that the interiors of many buildings were left in tact which offered a true glimpse into Bodie’s hsitory.
I highly recommend a visit to Bodie…truly a view back into what once was.